Dad - Day 2

Saturday July 21, 2012

Today was our DMZ tour. We woke up at the horrendous hour of 4:30am, had some breakfast, then  headed out to catch the first metro of the day. It was about an hour or so to get to where we needed to be, then we walked about 10 minutes to the tour building. Since we were early, we went to a nearby convenience store to pick up some vitamin C drinks. I bought a tuna triangle kimbap and let Dad try some – he loved it. He’s so Korean!

The tour kicked off at 7:15 when we got on a bus and headed up to the JSA (Joint Security Area). They were deadly serious about when and where you could take photos, and I had to keep resisting the urge to take pictures of things our tour guide would point out. A US Army soldier took us into the JSA building to give us a rundown on the history of the DMZ and JSA. He really knew his stuff, but I felt like he was in an invisible contest to see how fast he could possibly spit out all the words involved in the brief. There were people from 13 countries on our tour and English wasn’t all their native language, so I’m curious how much they caught. After the brief he got on our tour bus and we drove up to where North Korea and South Korea have face to face soldiers at their respective military bases. It was pretty intense – these South Korean soldiers standing motionless like Asian Buckingham palace guards, and some faceless, unmoving North Korean soldier about 50 feet away with binoculars plastered to his face staring at all of us. Then we drove to this place called Checkpoint 3 where we could see the closest North Korean village of Gijeongdong, or what the South call Propaganda Village because for one, they used to have huge speakers blaring out propaganda messages that could be heard at the JSA, and also it’s not a real village – just facades built to pretend like people live there. They have an absolutely enormous North Korean flag on a flagpole that’s 160m tall. The guide said it used to be the tallest in the world until Azerbaijan built one that’s 162m tall – the guide’s droll opinion was that NK must not have heard about it because they haven’t made a taller one yet. (Their 160m one was to outdo the corresponding SK flag that flies on the Southern side of the DMZ.) The guide told us all about Daesongdong, or Freedom Village. It’s the closest village to North Korea and that’s where they have the SK flag flying. The NK flag weighs, get this, over 600 pounds. 600 pounds, I kid you not! They have to take it down when it rains or else it will tear under its own weight.

Next we went to the Bridge of No Return, which is basically a bridge across the Sanchon River, which runs nearly along the DMZ line. It’s where POWs from the Korean War were allowed to choose which side they wanted to cross to, but once they crossed they could never go back. It was a very nondescript bridge.

Next we went to the Dora Observatory, which was pretty much the same view as Checkpoint 3, only not as good. We were only there for about 15 minutes.

Then we went to the 3^rd Tunnel. For a time spanning maybe ten years, the North dug four tunnels that were supposed to lead to Seoul for an invasion. The South was warned by an NK defector, so over that ten year period I mentioned they found four tunnels but suspect there might be more. We could go into the tunnel up to about 250m because we weren’t allowed farther as it was hitting the DMZ line. The guide warned us it was steep, and she was not kidding. We got hard hats and proceeded down quite a steep incline for awhile, then we hit the actual tunnel. It was not a place I’d recommend for anyone who is not in decent shape or is afraid of small spaces. Thank goodness for that hard hat because for quite a long distance we had to walk bent over because you couldn’t actually stand up as the tunnel was so low. I hit my head multiple times but was fine due to the hard hat. It also protected you from the dripping ceiling. There were information plaques periodically, and one hilariously stated that the North painted the tunnel in coal dust and then claimed they were “just mining for coal.” Sure, NK, let’s mine for coal in a solid granite area. I’m certain SK just took your word for it on the coal dust thing. Honestly sometimes I feel like NK is just full of cartoon villains who watch James Bond movies, point to the bad guy’s lair or whatever, and am like, “I gotta get me one of those!” or “THAT’S the plan, gentlemen.” It’s like they’re taking pages straight out of Dr. Evil’s How to Demand a Gazillion Dollars book.

We were hot, sweaty, and tired after hiking back up, so we went to the bus to relax. Then our tour guide cheerfully announced she had “made a deal” and got us into the seven minute showing of a movie about the 3^rd Tunnel. I doubt anyone was enthusiastic as we were all quite hungry at this point, but she seemed so pleased that we trooped dutifully off the bus and watched the film.

Next we got some lunch. We had bulgogi and it was great. Dad really enjoyed it, so I was happy about that. Bulgogi is just shaved bits of meat marinated in sweet soy sauce with rice, kimchi, and various other side dishes. Then it was back to Seoul and back on the metro. At long last we made it to my apartment around 6. It was a long day! Tomorrow we leave for Gangwon-do.

Dad's first day

Friday, July 20, 2012

Yesterday was Dad’s first day in Korea (sort of). I left school early to get to the airport to meet him at the gate. However, he was the one who met me… I was checking my email on my iPhone when I felt a tap on my shoulder. I looked up to see the man himself – he made it safely from O’Hare to Incheon and we were off! Straight to McDonald’s. Seriously though, we were both hungry and it’s about an hour and a half back to my apartment so we decided to kick off Dad’s international adventure with a (culinary) trip back home.

We hopped the 5300 bus where Dad was pleased they had American-style air conditioning. He had already noticed the Korean propensity toward the bare minimum of AC; that is, it’s on, but it’s not that cold. Luckily the 5300 bus is swanky. We got to Yatap Station and I showed Dad where he’ll catch the bus back to the airport in the event I can’t take him myself. We got on the metro and made our way to my house. Dad noticed that there’s quite a bit of walking involved with public transportation! But he was a trooper despite the heat and humidity.  We’ve been lucky though; the weather hasn’t been too bad.

After relaxing a bit in my apartment we ventured out to buy some coffee for today’s breakfast, then it was back to my apartment to get some sleep.

This brings us to today. Dad and I woke up and got ready for school. We took the bus partway, and Dad had a bit of trouble using his transportation card because I had told him to “swipe” his card when really you should just touch it to the screen. Then we walked up to the school. The kids freaked out when they saw him. Right away two first grade boys were like, Teacher, this is your father? And I said yes, and so one was like, Nice to meet you! The other didn’t say anything so the first boy hit him on the back and yelled at him in Korean to introduce himself. Korean culture is really big on greetings. I brought Dad into school and he met all my co-teachers, principal, and vice-principal. We could immediately tell he was making everyone nervous, especially the women. I thought it was because they were intimidated by speaking to a strange foreign man, but then I discovered the real reason… Were any of you aware that my father is actually a Brad Pitt double? Or possibly a combination of Brad Pitt and Harrison Ford. At least, that’s what my students were acting like. “Teacher, your father… HANDSOME! SMALL FACE! SO HANDSOME! HANDSOME GUY!” Even my co-teacher delivered a bit of a zinger, “You must have been very handsome when you were younger!”

It was the last day of first semester so we didn’t have any classes. Instead the students were cleaning the school. Dad was very impressed (“It’s just like when I was a kid!”). They all crowded around him in the hallway. It sounded a bit like this.

Teacher, is your father?

Wow, so handsome!

Hello nice to meet you how are you I’m fine thank you and you?

Teacher, you and your father looks so alike! Same face!

The best was one of my girls who didn’t believe me.

Jihye: Teacher, who is this?

Me: This is my father.

Jihye: Really?

Me: Yes, really.

Jihye: I think you are telling a lie. He is the new native teacher!

Dad was dying. He really couldn’t get over that one.

I took him to a third grade homeroom because it was my coteacher’s homeroom. The students were beyond thrilled to see him – I only wish anyone cared that much about seeing me. Usually I get groans and yawns. Anyway, the kids actually cheered for him. Dad introduced himself and I asked if the kids had any questions.

1.       Where is Mom?

2.       Have you met David Beckham?

3.       Your face is so small. You are so handsome. (A boy, by the way.)

4.       Do you like Korea?

5.       How old are you?

Then they cheered once again and we swept out to nearly a standing ovation.

Then it was time to go on our teachers’ retreat. We went to a barbecue restaurant, which is also known as the best Korean meal ever, so I was extremely happy. My coteacher told Dad he was very lucky because we only eat beef once a year and he managed to make it on the right day. Dad had a bit of trouble with the chopsticks but soldiered on. He ate his fill so I guess he sorted out the chopsticks thing. My coteachers told him he was very good at using chopsticks, which means I should really reevaluate the compliments they gave me on my chopsticks stills. I had coached Dad on how to accept a social drink and it turned out to be a good thing as several of the male teachers wanted to be his new friend, so Dad ended up downing several lunchtime soju shots. My coteachers were very worried that he was being made to drink too much so they started shooing away the men.

Next it was off to an African culture museum. We watched a drum/dance show which Dad really enjoyed. After we took a group photo, and the teachers made Dad get in it. Then we wandered around the African museum for awhile, then got back on the bus to go to a forest. At the forest we tried to follow the signs to “wildlife” which claimed to have a Siberian tiger (I kid you not). But I lazed out and told Dad I didn’t feel like climbing the hill – it had been a long, humid day and we didn’t have that much time. After the forest it was back to the bus and to school. The principal gave a little speech about the end of semester and our trip and capped it off with saying how happy everyone was to welcome Dad to our school and on the trip. Dad bowed and said thank you in Korean, and I was so proud.  Tomorrow, DMZ time!

The teacher becomes the student

So as you probably know, I'm taking a Korean class. I had a test on Monday, and so on Monday I needed some help with my homework as I didn't really understand what was going on. The Korean English teachers were busy, so I took my book upstairs after school to get my third graders to help me. It was really cute - a whole group of my boys took it upon themselves to check my homework and assure me that "Korean is so easy!" One of my boys actually borrowed my pen and circled all the right answers, x'ed the wrong ones, and then wrote "great" on one of my pages. They kept arguing with each other over what was best and how to best explain it, which was funny. I ended up getting a 14/15 on my test, so today I saw those boys and told them I got a good grade, and they told me I was a good student.

The stuff we just learned is the kind of thing I can write but will probably never be able to say in conversation. We learned how to say "therefore/in order to/because." I can't give it a direct translation. With every new Korean thing I learn I feel more sympathy towards my students and any Korean who tries to learn English. Also, I feel sympathy for myself because the two languages are just so incompatible. For example, my students were correcting a sentence, and they told me that it goes reason-place-verb. For example:
English
I'm going to the hospital because I'm sick.
Korean
Sick therefore hospital to the go.

Also, the word therefore changes spelling depending on which verb you use. This is why I will never be able to speak it... I can't change the verbs around fast enough in my head. Though on the upside, you actually attach words together which gives you clues as to which part of speech it is, i.e.
Sicktherefore hospitaltothe go.

So sick and therefore are combined and hospital to the is combined, so then you definitely know it's the object, and the verb is always at the end so you always know where it is. Handy, right?


Unfortunately, today some of my students were awful. Second grade low level boys. It's funny to look into the psyche of a 15 year old... everything is "unfair" to them. It's even worse though because we can't communicate well. I had warned the students a long time ago that if they're late to my class three times, they have to come in during lunch and do homework. I've been enforcing it too, and several students from this particular class have already have to do it. It was funny because two boys that had to do this punishment were two of the few who were on time, and they were like, "Teacher! Students, lunchtime, homework?"

Anyway, four of my boys showed up late because apparently they were looking for their books. I didn't think this was a good excuse, so I marked them late and they had to stand in the back (standard Korean punishment). And boy did they act horribly. So after class I had them come to the front so I could write down their names and tell them about their homework, and one of them started bellowing in that awful whiny voice that kids have, and I can only assume he was going on about how I wasn't listening to him. The Korean English teacher came over to help, and she said he was complaining that he wasn't late because someone had stolen his book and he was looking for it and it wasn't fair that he had to do homework, and so I told her to tell him that he'd been late two times already and I doubted his book had been stolen every time. I tell you, he had the worst belligerent attitude I've seen yet. I've got a girl just like him as well. It's annoying because when they get that bad, I just want them out of my sight and have nothing to do with them, but of course I have to hunt them down because they will "forget" to come in during lunchtime, then they give me their snotty looks when I come get them. It drives me extra bonkers because they like to pretend it's because they don't understand me, but in my opinion, that's not an excuse. Every word I use to explain the homework situation is a word I know in Korean, so I'll say the English word and wait for them to supply the Korean, so I know that they know. It gave me a headache is what I'm saying.

On the plus side, I'm going to the Lady Gaga concert this Friday!

Also, in that same class with the bad students, one of my boys came up to my desk before class to ask, "Miss Tay-lay-sa, how are you?" "I'm great, Subeom. How are you?" "I'm fine, thank you!" Miss Tay-lay-sa! How cute.

Bad weather blues

So on Friday night I was packed and ready to go for my 5K and concert on Saturday. I had to teach some Saturday classes (extra classes for gifted students), and I had a plan of attack for getting from school to the 5K. Then as I was about to fall asleep, didn't I get a phone call from my friend Jason who was the point man on operation runcert. He said he'd gotten a text from the organization and they were cancelling the whole thing on account of the weather. I couldn't believe it! I was so disappointed. So to sum it up, it was really and truly cancelled and all my weekend plans, including my first 5K and a free concert, were blown.

Instead I ended up going into Seoul to meet my friend Hannah, who had already bought a ticket because she was headed this way for the run and concert. We got lunch and bought some accessories for the Lady Gaga concert this Friday.

Speaking of Lady Gaga, did you know she has these freaky bones in her face and shoulders now? She looks eerily like an alien from Star Trek. I'm vaguely terrified to see her in person now.

I had my gifted 1st and 2nd grade classes on Saturday, and it's crazy how smart the first graders are. They are LOUD and participative (that's not actually a word) and really good at English.

Runcert

My 5K is on Saturday. Yesterday I ran for 20 minutes without walking, so I'm feeling pretty good about the 5K. Granted, I was moving pretty slowly and bet I only did like a mile and a half, but whatever - it was a good pace and I felt like I could have kept going. The event is called a "runcert" - run + concert. I like it.

I've been doing my second grade NEAT class for the past two weeks, and some of my students were also in my winter English camp. I love the second grade NEAT students, possibly even more than the third grade. This is probably because the second graders are much more animated. The boys in particular - I kind of want to adopt some of them. On the other end of the spectrum, I was really dragging today. The first graders are just so poorly behaved. They never want to be quiet or pay attention, and I've tried so many approaches - carrot, stick, punishment, cajoling, joking, threatening... they all only work temporarily. It's exhausting. Because I've been punishing late students with lunchtime writing assignments, my lunchtime has cut down to about 15 minutes a day. I'm usually late to lunch because of disciplining students who were misbehaving in class, and then I eat my lunch in about 10 minutes, then fill up my water bottle and go to various classrooms to hunt down the homework students because they either forget to come to the English classroom or just blow it off. I've even tried sending their homeroom teachers messages to send the students to my classroom, but either the teachers forget or the kids just don't go. I've found the best way is just to personally track them down then lead them to the classroom. Today I brought two first grade girls in, and while I was setting up the movie to show the rest of the kids, she slipped out after only completing about a fifth of the assignment. Because I have to supervise the lunchtime movies, I couldn't exactly start running around my five story school searching for a student. The upside is that I've noticed a definite trend in the students that I force to do their homework. It has really cut down on their tardiness.

I've also started a teachers' English conversation club. We had our first meeting on Wednesday. It's supposed to be six female teachers and one male teacher, but we only had four show up. One is the aforementioned hanja teacher, who is actually quite a nice guy, just a bit on the odd side. I still haven't read that book he gave me, which I should because I should really return it. I just don't feel like reading it though. The teachers' class was good though.

Today was the first day I didn't wear a jacket to school.

It's been one month and four days since I've twisted my hair. Does my hair look any different? Sadly, I don't think so.

Strawberry festival

Not much to report. I went to the Nonsan strawberry festival on Saturday. Lots of strawberries, as you might imagine. I did my 5K training yesterday and today. The race is this Saturday. 

Today was a really nice spring day. The cherry blossoms are blooming, so I took a walk around this river I found. 

I started my NEAT class for the second grade this past week. They are so great. They're very enthusiastic and willing to participate, and they think I'm hilarious. I told them cell phones weren't allowed and if I saw any, I would sell them on Gmarket (Korean Amazon). They laughed for about five minutes straight. 

Last Tuesday I went out for dinner and drinks with some of the other teachers. It was the "20s-30s club." There were about eight teachers altogether, four female and four male. I actually had a really great time - we ate pork barbecue for dinner, and then pig skin. Apparently it has a lot of collagen and is therefore good for our skin. It wasn't too bad actually. It had the consistency of Swedish fish but was incredibly spicy.

Then we went next door to a bar for some beer and soju. We even played some Korean drinking games, both of which involved chopsticks. In the first one, a person says something like, Who was a chatterbox in middle school? and then we go one, two, three and point our chopstick to the person we think is the best answer. Whoever has the most chopsticks pointed at them has to drink. Then we did one where we point our chopsticks at a random person and one designated person says a random number, then they count off in succession of whoever the chopsticks point to, and whoever is the last person has to take a drink. The teachers  really rolled with laughter when I could understand the instructions for the second game but the math teacher didn't get it. The female gym teacher translated the questions in the previous game for me. I'm getting better at understanding, but I still don't really know what's going on at dinner conversations. I just don't know enough words. Also, we had chicken feet as appetizers with our drinks. Awful. 

Then on Thursday I went out to dinner with the science teachers because I teach extra gifted and talented classes that are run through the science department. This dinner was pretty dull, but then we went for coffee after and that was more fun. Three of the teachers had been at the 20s-30s dinner, and so they had a great time recounting stories that mostly involved teasing the math teacher. Then one of the technology teachers told a story that I actually understood! It was so exciting. Basically, he saw this foreigner and an old man, and the foreigner dropped some trash on the ground, so the old man wanted him to pick it up, but I guess he didn't speak any English, so he just pointed at it and was like, Yo... yo...YO! Haha. 

I might have mentioned that we have a soldier at our school acting as a public servant. He's like 27 or so I think, and I feel bad for him because he seems to be terribly shy. At dinner they were like, say something! He and I took the metro part of the way back together, so I asked him if he liked our school, and he was like, Honestly... no. Poor guy. I think he's just very uncomfortable. 

Happy Easter!

Yesterday I had dinner with my two coteachers Hyejeong and Yeonjin and one of our former teachers, Mrs. Park. We went to VIPS, which is this Western-style buffet. I think it's a chain in England but I'm not sure. Regardless, we got there at about 5:15 and didn't leave until 10:30. It was ridiculous. We finished eating around 6:30 but then sat around chatting until like 10:30. A lot of the time Mrs. Park and Hyejeong were discussing textbooks and Yeonjin and I were chatting about whatever. Mrs. Park doesn't like her new school very much. She says the students have bad behavior and she misses the Taepyeong Middle School students. She said her students go to hagwons a lot so they're burned out in the daytime and are really tired and uncooperative. She said the other day a student demanded that Mrs. Park get a tissue off her desk and bring it to him!

My legs are kind of sore from the running on Thursday.  I was supposed to run again yesterday but because of the VIPS thing it was too late, so I'm going today.

Happy Easter!