Friday, April 29, 2011

Thanks, but I'd rather not live with you

Humorous, strange, and downright illogical things happen to me here on a near-daily basis. Usually there are not enough instances to warrant a mention, so I've compiled a few of the more hilarious episodes in a string of unrelated incidents.

1. Thanks, but how do I politely say, "No, there is absolutely no way I would ever live in your home."

The woman in charge of transportation at my second school, Mrs. Park, has two sons in my fourth and sixth grade classes. Recently we conversed with my vice-principal translating. Here is my summary of said conversation.

VP: Mrs. Park wants to know if you're interested in a home stay.
Me: Umm... well I mean I know what it is, but I already have an apartment.
VP: Mrs. Park says she would like to be a good English speaker. She wants to know if you're interested in a home stay.
Me: .................
VP: What's your favorite Korean food?
Me: Uh, kimbap.
VP: Mrs. Park says she makes great kimbap. She will make kimbap for you if you live with her in a home stay.
Me: Vice Principal Choi, I don't speak Korean!
VP: Mrs. Park says if you live with her, her sons will learn to speak English very well! She lives right next to the school.
Me: But.... Vice Principal Choi, this school is located in the middle of nowhere.
VP: Mrs. Park is very eager to have a foreigner live in a home stay with her.
Me: But I have an apartment already.
VP: So, what do you say about a home stay?
Me: *baffled*
Luckily at this point the phone rang and I made my escape. I have since avoided any and all mention of a home stay because there is no way I will ever live in one, especially one in a town that I only know of a single bus that can take me anywhere.

2. They've taken away my only real joy in life

I've started laminating quite a lot of things because 1) it makes my materials last longer, especially when the little ones put their grubby hands all over them and 2) it's fun. Recently I got to school early prepared to finish my current laminating project (dates with magnets on the back for daily questions) only to find the vice principal had locked the laminating sheets up in the cabinet. He was not in attendance as early as I was. No laminating for me. You cut me deep, Vice Principal, you cut me deep.

3. Teachers' dinners

Koreans are really big on dinners. It's really nice because they almost always invite me, but I'll be honest - I can think of a lot of other things I'd prefer to do with my time. No one will ever tell you in advance (per Korean usual), so expect to get any and all evening plans cancelled at the drop of a hat. It's usually not too bad - you go out until maybe six or seven eating some food, then go home. Oh, did you already have dinner plans with a friend? Perhaps you were going to play soccer. Maybe you needed a new lightbulb that you'd have to travel to Homeplus to get. Well too freaking bad, it's time to build relationships with your coworkers. Oh, what's that? You don't speak Korean and they don't speak English? It's okay, you can just sit in the corner, attempt to eat the least offensive pieces of meat placed in front of you, and hope no one insists you drink six shots of soju while simultaneously never speaking to you. Of course I am exaggerating, but not by a lot. Dinners are tolerable, and sometimes enjoyable, but for the most part they are very boring. Turn on a foreign film with no subtitles. Eat a meal. Welcome to my life. To be fair my coteacher talks to me, and some of the other teachers will talk to me, but overall the language spoken is Korean, and they're interested in speaking to each other, which I can understand. When dinners go over an hour and a half though, I tend to get really antsy. Especially considering we're dining Korean-style, aka cross-legged on the floor.

4. The supreme ruler of the Korean elementary school: the Principal

Because of Confucianism, authority is a huge deal here. Older people get automatic respect, and bosses get even more. Male bosses even more. I know that bosses are in charge across all cultures, but it just seems to border on the ridiculous here (to a Westerner such as myself). To me the biggest problem appears to be that there is no discussion on anything - this is not a democracy, it's a principal-tatorship. Examples below.

1. Because my coteacher is new, I suggested that the students make nametags and wear them in class so that it would facilitate her learning their names. After asking the principal's approval (um, we need his approval for that?), our request was denied on the basis that it would "take too much time" to put on and take off nametags.

2. At a teachers' dinner, we were finished eating. Several teachers took their leave, presumably because they were done eating and perhaps wanted to, I don't know, spend time with their families or something crazy like that. The principal sent the head teacher out to fetch them because he hadn't dismissed anyone from dinner yet. These adults had to return to the table and mill around until the principal was good and ready to end the meal.

3. I went to a teachers' training workshop the other week. I didn't say goodbye to the principal because he wasn't in his office when I left. When I got back my coteacher informed me the principal was unhappy because 1) I didn't say goodbye and 2) I didn't report in when I came back from the trip. Sorry sir, I didn't feel like searching the entire school for you, and then no one told me I would have to report in to you because 1) I don't speak Korean 2) you don't speak English and 3) I had never gone on a business trip like that before. My coteacher taught me a Korean phrase to say and we trooped posthaste to the principal's office so I could offer my sort-of-apology-type-thingy. This was definitely a valuable expenditure of my time. It's not like I teach eight classes on Monday and Tuesday, then five on Wednesday plus two hours of volleyball - I've got loads of time to hunt you down just to say hello and goodbye.

4. I've learned that volleyball is more important than educating children, apparently. I was not allowed to remain behind in my classroom to teach my sixth grade remedial students the alphabet, regardless of the fact that they need to know these kinds of things (seriously, the ALPHABET) to pass their tests to get into middle school. The rationale was that if the principal let just anyone use the excuse of "too much work," he would never be able to successfully run the "teachers' volleyball workshop."

5. My coteacher, the special ed teacher, and the school nurse have no classes on Saturdays when school is in session (Koreans go to school every other Saturday for half a day). The principal makes them weed, landscape, etc. They don't have this time free to lesson plan.

Quick note: before you start thinking my main school principal is awful, he isn't. Sometimes he's very nice. He often gives me rides home so I don't have to take the bus, and he'll pop in occasionally to give me and my coteacher ginseng drinks (very popular gift in Korea). These things are very nice.

This is just a Korean cultural thing. I've heard that a lot of elementary school principals are still caught up in this kind of mindset. That being said, my second school principal is awesome. Examples.

1. I rarely see him. He's not often in his office, and whenever I do see him it's typically in the teachers' lounge. Hilariously enough, he always looks surprised to see me, like "Whoa! Hello native teacher who has been in my school for seven months! Fancy seeing you here!" But we greet each other, and I always get the impression he wants to chat to me but simply can't. There are usually snacks in the teachers' lounge and he's always encouraging me to eat them.

2. He appears to be a very humble man, especially when it comes to dinners, etc. The other teachers have to pressure him into the positions of honor at tables, etc.

3. Volleyball is not the center of his universe.

4. Since the weather has gotten nicer I've seen him outside in his windbreaker and swishy pants outfit weeding, watering plants, and doing landscaping work in general. I approve of his willingness to do manual labor that he could easily order other people to do.

5. He let me go early at the end of winter camp because camp was done, and he thanked me for my hard work and dedication to the students.

5. A Korean's "diet"

After volleyball last Wednesday we had a light dinner of fried chicken in the teachers' lounge. The special ed teacher offered me some Coke, which I said yes to, then offered it to my coteacher. She refused based on the claim that she is on a diet (she's about 5'1" and like a size 2). I nodded politely then kept my mouth shut as she went on to eat about five pieces of fried chicken.

6. Awesome things my coteacher has said to me

1. We went out for a (surprise, surprise) unexpected teachers' dinner with parents of kids from school. I was still in my volleyball outfit, sweats and a t-shirt. Awkwardly, I told my coteacher, "Uh oh, if I had known I would have changed! (motioning toward my sweatpants)" Her response? "Don't worry, they look expensive!"

2. "I get so nervous thinking about volleyball I can't even eat!"

3. "Wow, Nam Kyung-mee Teacher (third grade) is so fat! Do you think she's pregnant? I'll ask her if she's pregnant."

7. Awesome things my students have said

1. 5th grade girl - she likes to call me the devil whenever I do things that displease her, i.e. not giving her candy, refusing to write her homework for her, having the audacity to allow her team to lose, etc. etc. "Theresa, devil! Sujin, angel!" Though to be fair she's a great kid and loves me, she's just teasing.

2. My brattiest student, a fourth grade girl, told me, "Teacher, IQ, zero!" Thanks, kiddo.

3. My coteacher makes bad students write English dialogues as punishment then come to our classroom later so we can check them. After the fourth grade class ended, one boy asked, "Does anyone have to come to your classroom?" My coteacher said no. His response? "Teacher, you will be lonely!"

4. One of my third grade boys had his fancy-pants cell phone out in class. I said, "Inseo, no phones in class!" He pointed at it urgently and told me, "Teacher, message!!"

Monday, April 11, 2011

Cirque du Soleil and Seoul

This past Saturday I went to Seoul to see Cirque du Soleil! The performance I saw was called Varekai, and it was mind-blowing. My friend Chris found out that Le Cirque was coming to Seoul, and he was interested in going, and I've always wanted to see a Cirque performance, so it was decided. I kept trying to explain to my coteachers and vice principal what I was going to see, but the fact that "Cirque du Soleil" is in French was throwing them for a bit of a loop, and saying I was going to see the circus didn't quite convey the message I was trying to send. I finally just youtubed some performances to illustrate my point. I attached a Youtube link of the Icarian games part of Varekai if you're interested in watching. Something I found very interesting and different from what I expected was that the performers actually messed up multiple times. At first I couldn't believe it, but then I thought about it and realized how ridiculous it would be if they landed every impossible trick every time. I thought about how Olympic gymnasts rarely land perfectly, and these Cirque performers were landing most of theirs. It actually added to the show, I thought, because it showed truly how difficult these things were. It stressed me out a lot to be honest - I kept gasping every time they would attempt something particularly scary or challenging. They did a lot of stuff in midair without safety nets, though thankfully sometimes they had spotters on the ground, but not for everything. I was so excited to go; it was such an amazing experience.

Getting to Le Cirque just showed me yet again how massive Seoul really is. I looked up the tourist information about Seoul, and it's crazy to think about the scope of this city. First of all, Korea is about the size of Indiana. A (very brief) Google search of the US Census Bureau tells me Indiana has a population of about 6.4 million people whereas Korea has 48.6 million. A full-blown quarter of the population lives in the city of Seoul, while HALF the population of the ENTIRE country lives in the Seoul National Capital Area, which includes most of the Gyeonggi province as well as the neighboring city of Incheon (home of the Incheon International Airport). According to the Seoul tourist site, Seoul itself is less than 1% size-wise of all of South Korea, so you can imagine calling Seoul "densely populated" is a bit of an understatement. I've put a picture of the epic-ness of the Seoul metro in this post so you can appreciate it when I say the Seoul metro is insane.

Anyway, so here's a sample of the difficulty I have in accessing the city of Seoul. It's deceptively easy - just get to downtown Buyeo (which is very simple) and hop an express bus (heaven forbid I accidentally get a non-direct bus that stops in Cheonan, Gongju, and some other godforsaken town and takes about 3.5 hours to get to Seoul) to the city. The express bus usually takes two hours to get to the Nambu Bus Terminal in southwest Seoul. After landing at Nambu, it's off to the metro. Again, sounds simple. However, if you want to get to Hongdae (the university section of Seoul where all the cool kids hang out), which is usually where I want to go, it's about 45 minutes by metro. That doesn't include the line change which takes about 10 minutes of walking from the orange to the green line. Chris and I were staying in a hostel in Hongdae, but Cirque du Soleil was at the Jamsil Olympic Stadium (from 1988, I think, when South Korea hosted the Olympics), about 15 minutes from Nambu. This meant I had to take a two hour bus, 45-55 minute metro ride, walk to the hostel to drop off my things and change into my Cirque attire, then we walked back to the metro and took our 50 minute joyride to Gangnam for dinner. Then metro from Gangnam to Jamsil, thankfully only about 10-15 minutes. Enjoy Cirque du Soleil, then get back on the metro yet again to cross the city yet again. We could have stayed in nearby Gangnam, but my friends Gena and Elise were in Seoul for the weekend, and I wanted to see them, so Hongdae it was. Phew - it was quite the journey. Additionally, I dressed up for Le Cirque, so that meant I got to spend lots of time standing in heels on the metro. Also apparently I am a giant klutz who has problems walking because I managed to trip and fall while walking to dinner - yeah, that was really embarrassing. In my defense, that sidewalk was really poorly paved. The next day I got to cross the city yet once again to get back to Nambu Terminal. I think I've had my fill of metro rides for some time.

Another thing that I found out almost as soon as I got to Korea that I thought was interesting is that apparently all Westerners cannot pronounce the word "Seoul" correctly. We say "Seoul" like "soul," but if you say that to a Korean they probably won't know what you're talking about, unless maybe they're very familiar with Westerners. The way you have to say it is "Seo-ul" which is the way it's written in Korean with two distinct vowel sounds. I always feel like a bit of an idiot when I'm basically trying to pronounce it with a Korean accent because goodness knows my Korean accent is a total zero.

If you click on the picture, it should enlarge. Or if you're really that curious, you can google "Seoul metro map." Regardless, my stop, Nambu Bus Terminal, is on the orange line towards the lower right hand side. Hongik University (Hongdae) is on the green line, center-ish towards the upper left side. Jamsil is also on the green line, though much closer to Nambu.

My friend Chris
Ridiculous Varekai picture. This woman was absolutely incredible - the picture doesn't even do her justice because you can't really tell but she's just holding onto this block on a peg. She did all these contortionist things with only one hand or sometimes two on just two individual blocks on pegs.

Varekai!
The tent. I'll be honest, it was a bit underwhelming. The arena was much smaller than I had expected, but that was awesome because it meant our seats were much closer than they looked online.
Me at Le Cirque!
Me and Chris in front of the tents.
At the entrance!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huiLtQ-Xybo&feature=related