Dad - Day 2

Saturday July 21, 2012

Today was our DMZ tour. We woke up at the horrendous hour of 4:30am, had some breakfast, then  headed out to catch the first metro of the day. It was about an hour or so to get to where we needed to be, then we walked about 10 minutes to the tour building. Since we were early, we went to a nearby convenience store to pick up some vitamin C drinks. I bought a tuna triangle kimbap and let Dad try some – he loved it. He’s so Korean!

The tour kicked off at 7:15 when we got on a bus and headed up to the JSA (Joint Security Area). They were deadly serious about when and where you could take photos, and I had to keep resisting the urge to take pictures of things our tour guide would point out. A US Army soldier took us into the JSA building to give us a rundown on the history of the DMZ and JSA. He really knew his stuff, but I felt like he was in an invisible contest to see how fast he could possibly spit out all the words involved in the brief. There were people from 13 countries on our tour and English wasn’t all their native language, so I’m curious how much they caught. After the brief he got on our tour bus and we drove up to where North Korea and South Korea have face to face soldiers at their respective military bases. It was pretty intense – these South Korean soldiers standing motionless like Asian Buckingham palace guards, and some faceless, unmoving North Korean soldier about 50 feet away with binoculars plastered to his face staring at all of us. Then we drove to this place called Checkpoint 3 where we could see the closest North Korean village of Gijeongdong, or what the South call Propaganda Village because for one, they used to have huge speakers blaring out propaganda messages that could be heard at the JSA, and also it’s not a real village – just facades built to pretend like people live there. They have an absolutely enormous North Korean flag on a flagpole that’s 160m tall. The guide said it used to be the tallest in the world until Azerbaijan built one that’s 162m tall – the guide’s droll opinion was that NK must not have heard about it because they haven’t made a taller one yet. (Their 160m one was to outdo the corresponding SK flag that flies on the Southern side of the DMZ.) The guide told us all about Daesongdong, or Freedom Village. It’s the closest village to North Korea and that’s where they have the SK flag flying. The NK flag weighs, get this, over 600 pounds. 600 pounds, I kid you not! They have to take it down when it rains or else it will tear under its own weight.

Next we went to the Bridge of No Return, which is basically a bridge across the Sanchon River, which runs nearly along the DMZ line. It’s where POWs from the Korean War were allowed to choose which side they wanted to cross to, but once they crossed they could never go back. It was a very nondescript bridge.

Next we went to the Dora Observatory, which was pretty much the same view as Checkpoint 3, only not as good. We were only there for about 15 minutes.

Then we went to the 3^rd Tunnel. For a time spanning maybe ten years, the North dug four tunnels that were supposed to lead to Seoul for an invasion. The South was warned by an NK defector, so over that ten year period I mentioned they found four tunnels but suspect there might be more. We could go into the tunnel up to about 250m because we weren’t allowed farther as it was hitting the DMZ line. The guide warned us it was steep, and she was not kidding. We got hard hats and proceeded down quite a steep incline for awhile, then we hit the actual tunnel. It was not a place I’d recommend for anyone who is not in decent shape or is afraid of small spaces. Thank goodness for that hard hat because for quite a long distance we had to walk bent over because you couldn’t actually stand up as the tunnel was so low. I hit my head multiple times but was fine due to the hard hat. It also protected you from the dripping ceiling. There were information plaques periodically, and one hilariously stated that the North painted the tunnel in coal dust and then claimed they were “just mining for coal.” Sure, NK, let’s mine for coal in a solid granite area. I’m certain SK just took your word for it on the coal dust thing. Honestly sometimes I feel like NK is just full of cartoon villains who watch James Bond movies, point to the bad guy’s lair or whatever, and am like, “I gotta get me one of those!” or “THAT’S the plan, gentlemen.” It’s like they’re taking pages straight out of Dr. Evil’s How to Demand a Gazillion Dollars book.

We were hot, sweaty, and tired after hiking back up, so we went to the bus to relax. Then our tour guide cheerfully announced she had “made a deal” and got us into the seven minute showing of a movie about the 3^rd Tunnel. I doubt anyone was enthusiastic as we were all quite hungry at this point, but she seemed so pleased that we trooped dutifully off the bus and watched the film.

Next we got some lunch. We had bulgogi and it was great. Dad really enjoyed it, so I was happy about that. Bulgogi is just shaved bits of meat marinated in sweet soy sauce with rice, kimchi, and various other side dishes. Then it was back to Seoul and back on the metro. At long last we made it to my apartment around 6. It was a long day! Tomorrow we leave for Gangwon-do.